Food

The superb wines of Bugay (Boo-gay) are not likely known to most. This is a small production, almost cult winery that grows grapes in what is arguably one of the most beautiful spots on the face of the globe. Though most land developers upon seeing the site would have dismissed its potential because of its isolated location and it steepness.

John Bugay, an award winning landscape designer and real estate developer, and wife Reta recognized the site's potential immediately. John and Reta upon graduating from the University of California-Santa Barbara formed what grew to be a successful landscape design and construction company. They sold this successful California business in 1988 and moved on to similar ventures in Washington State, Reta says, "The call of California was ever present." They had been investigating vineyard sites for several years before they found the site for Bugay high up in the Mayacamas mountains.

The Mayacamas mountain range frames the west side of the Napa Valley. This range backs up to the Pacific Ocean. Mount St. Helens further north is part of this range. The Bugay property, all 200 acres, is 1,200-feet high in the Mayacamas Range.

The site was virgin land with no infrastructure. Roads had to be constructed, wells drilled, and building materials hauled in up curving mountainous roads. Work began on the site in 1996. Vineyards were planted starting in 1997.

The land was developed with as little intervention as possible. John's landscaping background enabled him to take advantage of the natural clearings in the terrain that open to spectacular vistas of both Sonoma and Napa Valleys below. Over 80 percent of this site remains forested and will stay that way as long as the Bugays own the property. The vineyards as well as the gardens were designed and planted by John who did all landscaping including design, planting and construction of walls and terraces.

The gardens surrounding the home are amazing. No one would ever guess the plantings are new and that the Bugays' Italianate villa has been there since only 2001. The altitude of the site places it above the fog line and above damaging spring frosts making it possible for tropical plants to survive on the site.

Fortuitously and unexpectedly the soil pH is remarkably close to perfect making it ideal for all plants including flowers, heirloom tomatoes and, most of all, grapes. Because the site is somewhat immune to damaging frost, grapes bud earlier, but the cooling coastal winds slows ripening thus affording the development of fruit with great flavor intensity.

John is a hands-on vigneron. His meticulously maintained vineyards lured Tom Garrett formerly of Turley, Phelps, and Mondavi to become his winemaker. Garrett is assisted by Randall Watkins. Both men say John is a perfectionist in the vineyard and that neither could resist the opportunity to make wines from his perfect fruit.

Though wine is made off site, John maintains meticulous control of the process and this is reflected in Bugay's array of perfect wines.

These wines are not currently stocked locally, but are distributed in Alabama by Pinnacle Distributors in Birmingham and can be had by special order through your favorite wine store.

Try these stunning wines:

Bugay 2007 Long Stem Rosé of Syrah. $24 range. Dry pink wine with flavors of raspberries and strawberries. The bottle is beautifully engraved with art nouveau long stem roses. Enjoy the wine, but save the bottle for displaying a single rose or storing olive oil.

Bugay 2005 Cabernet Franc. $52 range. Few wineries bottle a 100 per cent cabernet franc, one of the varietals traditionally contained in a Bordeaux blend. This is luscious example of the varietal with a hint of herb mixed in with black fruit flavors. Interesting.

Bugay 2006 Zinfandel. Soon to be released in the $35 range. Complex, but balanced, concentrated dark fruit aromas and taste. Not to be missed by lovers of big zins.

2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, 'The Empress.' $85 range. Costly for a reason. Due to the incline of the vineyard almost all the work is done by hand. Yields are purposefully kept low to focus the intensity of the fruit. This wine is aged 21 months in new oak barrels from nine different cooperages selected so that each barrel type conveys different nuances of flavor. Delicious!