Uncorked: Wine and dime — Merchants offer low-cost wines
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Despite our atrocious economy, the wine business has remained relatively unscathed. In 2007, as the economy started to slow, the US wine industry reported a 2 percent overall gain in sales. This gain topped off 14 years of consecutive growth. Much of this growth has been attributed to Americans embracing wine as an integral part of the dining experience, but we are learning it might not be quite as integral as once thought.
Nielsen Research tracks wine consumer behavior gathering most of its information from super market scanning systems. Nielsen reports market softening in high-end and mid-range priced wines. Sales of wines priced in the $15 to $20 per bottle range had been growing at about 15 percent a year and wines above $20 had been growing at 20 percent per year, but these growth rates declined by half in the first quarter of 2008.
Nielson also reports restaurant sales of high-end wines are also softening. Diners are ordering less expensive bottles or are having more wine by the glass rather than pony up over a hundred dollars for restaurant wine.
Fine wine prices are at an 18-month low according to London based International Vintners Exchange (Liv-ex) 100 Fine Wine Index. According to Liv-ex, sales of vintage 2004 Lafite Rothschild, a prestigious first growth wine from Bordeaux, are down by 27.9 percent and other first growths are experiencing similar declines. The demise of these great first growth chateaux is not imminent because wine is not the only source of revenue for most, but some American producers of high-end wines may not fair as well especially those who are highly leveraged. Kirkland Ranch Winery in Napa is the latest winery to go on the auction block, and bids for this winery are expected to be half of what they would have been a few short years ago. Montelena owner, Jim Barrett, has called off the sale announced four months ago of historic Napa winery Chateau Montelena because purchaser Michel Reybier, owner of chateau Cos d' Estournel, had not been able to meet the financial requirements of the sale contract estimated to be between $120 to $140 million.
Economic doom and gloom may have had us too preoccupied to select wines for tomorrow's Thanksgiving lunch, or perhaps a last minute invitation necessitates making a hasty last minute selection for our host. The good news is it is easy to find good, moderately priced wines at our local wine sources that are sure to make a pleasant addition to any Thanksgiving gathering.
Select one of these reasonably priced wines recommended by yours truly and your local wine merchants, Janet Tyson Prosser of Tyson Art and Frame in Golden Springs and Terry Paschal of the Wine Cellar on Quintard Avenue:
Veuve de Vernay. In the $11 range at both Tyson Art and Frame and Midtown Chevron at 13th and Wilmer in Anniston. A French sparkling wine, but not Champagne. True Champagne comes only for a specific region, Champagne, in France. This wine comes from the Loire. Delicious, light, sprightly, dry white wine at a fraction of the cost of true Champagne.
Kiona Washington State Riesling 2007. $10.75 at Tyson Art and Frame. Pairs great with Thanksgiving Turkey and the trimmings. Great as an aperitif. A smooth, slightly sweet, white wine with sufficient acidity for structure.
Fetzer Vineyards Valley Oaks 2006 Riesling. $8.85 at Midtown. A good ham wine. Very floral nose. Slightly sweet, soft wine.
2006 Dancing Bull Sauvignon Blanc. $8.99 at Winn-Dixie on Greenbrier-Dear Road. Pleasant sauvignon blanc. Dry, with a slight herbaceousness on the nose and palate. Crisp with flavors of citrus. Serve with a seafood appetizer or oyster dressing swimming in giblet gravy.
Estancia 2007 Pinot Noir Pinnacles Ranches. $12.99 at Winn Dixie. Moderately priced good pinot noir is more difficult to find than wines made from other varietals. This pinot is grown in a cool climate. It is fruity with dark berry flavors, smooth with a creamy finish. A good turkey wine.
House Wine 2006. $11.99 at the Wine Cellar. One of my perennial favorite red wine blends. From Washington State. Consistently good Bordeaux type blend. 2006 is 54 percent cabernet sauvignon, 30 merlot 11 malbec, and 2 cabernet franc. Though it has a simple black and white label, it drinks like a more expensive wine.
Paschal owner of the Wine Cellar also recommends these value wines: Chilean Santa Rita 120 2007 Merlot, as well as 120 2006
Cabernet Sauvignon. Both are priced at $7.50.


